The New River Gorge and The Rock Warrior’s Way

This past week I went out to climb lead in the New River Gorge, West Virginia. I went with a local guide who has been trained in The Rock Warrior’s Way – a climbing philosophy, book, and course by Arno Ilgner. Though Arno’s method is most known for tackling and working with fear and commitment in climbing, the philosophy and approach arise from these more general points:

  • Climbing (and life) is a mental game first.
  • Stay in the present moment.
  • Accept risk consciously.
  • Commitment and execution matter more than perfection.
  • Focus on learning, not outcomes.
  • Falling and commitment are skills that can be learned.
  • Conserve mental energy.

These were the points that my guide emphasized while I was on the rock. Climbing outdoors is different from climbing in the gym, more “cryptic” as some climbers describe it. Holds, movements, and sequences are less immediately apparent, and the distance between protection points is farther – more “runout.” As I tackled climbing in less-than-ideal fall-zones and long runouts, The Warrior’s Way mentality, and these points in particular, allowed me to take control of the natural feelings of fear and uncertainty, work with them, and learn from them. I found myself less focused on “sending,” and more open to taking breaks on the wall to study the route or reset mentally. In this way I felt as much of a sense of accomplishment on routes I didn’t finish, that pushed me to my limits, as those I completed.


Location: Alexandria, VA, USA

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